Power Steering Not Working
Power steering not working turns normal driving into an arm workout — the steering wheel suddenly becomes heavy and difficult to turn, especially at low speeds and when parking. The cause depends on whether your car has hydraulic power steering (most vehicles before 2012) or electric power steering (EPS), as the failure points and fixes are completely different.
Can I Drive?
The car is still steerable without power assist — but it requires significantly more effort and can be dangerous in emergency maneuvers. Drive only at low speeds and get it diagnosed promptly.
Most Likely Causes
- 1
Low power steering fluid (hydraulic systems)
The most common and easiest to fix cause of power steering not working in older vehicles. Low fluid reduces hydraulic pressure. Check the reservoir level — it should be between MIN and MAX when cold. Low fluid usually means there's a leak somewhere.
Locate and fix the leak after topping up — fluid doesn't disappear on its own.
- 2
Broken or slipping power steering pump belt
On hydraulic systems, the pump is driven by a serpentine belt. A broken, cracked, or glazed belt stops the pump from building pressure. Squealing on startup that coincides with heavy steering confirms this.
Inspect the belt first before assuming the pump is bad.
- 3
Failed power steering pump
Power steering not working with adequate fluid and a good belt points to pump failure. The pump won't build sufficient pressure. A whining or groaning noise that gets louder when turning confirms pump failure.
Pumps typically last 100,000–150,000 miles.
- 4
Electric power steering (EPS) motor or module failure
On EPS vehicles (no fluid reservoir), the power steering warning light illuminates and the wheel goes heavy. A software fault or failed EPS motor is the culprit. A battery reset sometimes resolves a software glitch.
EPS fault codes require a dealer or advanced scanner to read.
- 5
Steering rack leak
Internal seals in the rack deteriorate, causing hydraulic fluid to bypass internally. Power steering not working intermittently — heavy when cold, better when warm — is a classic sign of a leaking rack.
Confirm with a pressure test at the shop.
How to Diagnose It
- 1
Check power steering fluid level
Locate the power steering reservoir (if applicable — EPS vehicles have none). Check level cold. If low, add the correct fluid type and note whether the heavy steering improves.
Tool: Correct power steering fluid for your vehicle
- 2
Inspect the belt
With the engine off, check the serpentine belt for cracks, glazing, or missing. A loose belt under the load of turning produces a squeal.
Tool: Flashlight
- 3
Battery reset for EPS systems
Disconnect the battery negative terminal for 10 minutes. Reconnect and test. EPS software faults sometimes clear and power steering not working resolves without any parts replacement.
Tool: 10mm socket
How to Fix It
Top up fluid and find the leak
Add the correct fluid (not all power steering fluids are compatible). Then investigate the source of the leak — hoses, pump seal, or rack are the usual suspects.
Replace serpentine belt
If the belt is the culprit, replacement is straightforward and cheap. Always replace the belt tensioner at the same time on high-mileage vehicles.
Replace power steering pump or steering rack
Pump replacement is a moderate DIY job on most vehicles. Rack replacement is more involved — typically requires an alignment afterward.
Mistakes to Avoid
- Using the wrong type of fluid — some racks require specific ATF or OEM fluid, not generic power steering fluid.
- Ignoring a slow leak by repeatedly topping up — the leaking fluid will eventually contaminate the rack seals and cause bigger damage.
- Driving long distances with no power assist — it's unsafe in emergency situations.